Goldwork is a term that describes a type of embroidery using metallic threads. We typically use Goldwork embroidery to depict a sign of wealth, status and power. It’s history can be stretched to thousands of years ago and was even described in the Bible.
They hammered the gold into thin plates and cut them into threads in order to work it into the blue, purple and scarlet yarn and the fine linen crafted by the skilled artisan
~ Exodus 39, 3
Chinese and Japanese emperors were fond of using goldwork embroidery on their garments as it adds luxury and lustre. Today, high fashion brands like Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana and Christian Dior had used Goldwork embroidery in their designs.
Type of Metallic Threads
Metallic threads are prized particularly for the way lights play and reflect on it. Below are some of the common metallic threads.
- Passing is the most common thread in goldwork embroidery. It is made up of a thin strip of metal wrapped around a core of cotton or silk.
- Japanese Thread is the cheaper alternative to passing. It is used in modern goldwork and consists of a thin foil wrapped around a core of cotton or silk.
- Purl or bullion is a fine wire coiled around a triangular needle. It comes in both matte or shiny versions.
- Couching thread is a core thread wrapped with a fine metal thread that is wavy in appearance.
- Twist or Torsade consists of multiple strands of metal twisted together to form a thread. It has a textured appearance.
Techniques
Surface embroidery and free-hand embroidery are the only techniques to apply Goldwork. Known as counching whereby the gold thread is laid across the surface of the fabric and then held together in stitches by a different thread, usually of fine silk. A tool called a ‘mellore’ or a stiletto are used to help position the threads and create the holes needed to pull them through.
Conclusion
Goldwork embroidery will lift up the design of your logo, badge or artwork by giving it a luxurious feel. If you want your artwork to stand out, consider using gold and silver threads. Speak with us for your embroidery needs.
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